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The cobblestone streets are familiar and thus far, all of D.D.’s old haunts are still around. The Gran Hotel, home of great chilaquiles and decent espresso, hasn’t changed one iota, gracias a Dios. And the street market, that surreal kaleidoscope of the senses, still radiates its energy to revitalize D.D.’s creative juices on his morning constitutional.
But the plazas seem less crowded, the traffic sparser than 17 moons ago, when D.D. last enjoyed this city. The sidewalk cafes and the ice cream stalls have fewer customers, and the general pace of life seems slower, less frenetic than before.
Still, D.D. looks forward to chronicling new discoveries for his loyal readers in the days ahead.


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